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Friday, December 8, 2023

New COSRX Cica Foam Cleanser, Cleaning Balm, and Cleaning Oil – Fifty Shades of Snail

It’s been an enormous couple of years for COSRX. They’ve expanded past their beginnings as a small and comparatively unknown model centered on bare-bones AHA and BHA merchandise, into a worldwide identify with a presence in brick-and-mortar retail chains like ULTA. Final yr, the massive COSRX information for me was the enlargement of their Superior Snail line, with the Superior Snail Radiance Twin Essence after which a brand new cleanser and sheet masks too. (Additionally, however this yr: the Superior Snail hydrogel eye patches.)

At present, the thrilling COSRX information is the enlargement of their newer Pure Match Cica line. Particularly, the cleaning merchandise that can formally launch later this month. I’m very lucky to have an amazing relationship with some individuals on the model, so when certainly one of my pals there offhandedly talked about a brand new cleaning balm(!!!!) I shamelessly requested if I may perhaps presumably get some to strive. She stated sure. Now I’m right here to report again.

As a result of that is the form of information the world wants in these occasions.

The merchandise featured on this submit had been supplied at my request by the model. This submit could include affiliate hyperlinks, which allow me to earn a small fee on purchases made by clicking the hyperlinks. Affiliate hyperlinks are marked with an asterisk(*).

If you happen to’ve been listening to Ok-beauty for some time, you’ve very probably seen “cica” merchandise, which have been round for years.

Cica merchandise characteristic extracts and derivatives of the centella asiatica plant, often known as tiger grass (as seen in Dr. Jart’s Cicapair Tiger Grass line) or gotu kola. It’s historically utilized in Asian folks drugs to deal with wounds, burns, and inflammatory pores and skin circumstances, and there’s proof to help its wound therapeutic and anti inflammatory properties, particularly when the remoted centella asiatica compounds asiatic acid, madecassic acid, asiaticoside and madecassoside are used. Whereas that doesn’t imply that each cica product will ship therapeutic and soothing advantages, since extract efficiency and concentrations fluctuate wildly between suppliers and types, it does imply that cica merchandise are marketed in the direction of delicate or broken pores and skin. As is the COSRX Pure Match Cica line.

When planning out this submit, I wasn’t positive by which order to current the merchandise. I settled for beginning with my least favourite of the three.

I actually, actually tried with this one, too.

Why is it my least favourite? Why?? How dare???

It’s not that it doesn’t cleanse properly. It does. It cleanses perhaps a little bit too properly.

The COSRX Cica Creamy Foam Cleanser delivers a really satisfying cleaning expertise. Pearly white proper out of the tube, it lathers as much as a thick, rich-feeling foam with a recent eucalyptus scent. That lush foam massages simply over pores and skin and rinses off cleanly. Sadly, that lush, clean-rinsing foam takes away extra than simply my common cleaning oil or balm residue and normal pores and skin particles. It additionally takes away my pores and skin’s personal moisture.

That’s as a result of in contrast to the milder, low pH cleansers I’m used to, the Cica Creamy Foam Cleanser is a real cleaning soap. As a substitute of utilizing artificial detergents like coco betaine and even sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) or sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), this product derives its cleaning brokers from the response of fatty acids (right here, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, and lauric acid) with lye (aka potassium hydroxide). Lye is a powerful base; the saponification response ends in a really excessive pH closing outcome. The pH of the Cica Creamy Foam Cleanser is a couple of 9, in keeping with my check strips.

My pores and skin, and the pores and skin of a lot of you guys whom I’ve talked to over time, tremendously prefers low pH cleansers. Personally, I discover face washes with a pH between 5 and seven to be preferrred. The pH stage of a wholesome pores and skin barrier is inside that vary, and in my expertise, cleansers with pH ranges too far above it are likely to disrupt and weaken the moisture barrier, permitting its personal naturally occuring lipids to be washed away. This can lead to tight, dry, delicate pores and skin that loses hydration simply.

I had a nasty feeling about this cleanser getting in, because of the substances and that pH check. However I wished to offer it a shot anyway. “No less than it’s not a ten or 11, like another cleansers I’ve tried,” I advised myself, and lathered up with it morning and night time. It feels completely great whereas in use. Then my pores and skin feels squeaky clear afterwards, which is strictly what I don’t need.

It took a couple of week earlier than my pores and skin felt so tight, itchy, and uncomfortable that I needed to throw within the towel. Granted, that’s longer than I final with most excessive pH cleansers, in all probability as a result of this one is at the least not so excessive pH {that a} single use leaves my face pink and irritated. (Perhaps it’s the cica.) However the tightness and discomfort are why it’s my least favourite of the three. I’ll use the remainder of it up as a brush and puff cleanser.

As a result of there aren’t any actual common guidelines in skincare, nonetheless, I’m conscious that some individuals truly favor excessive pH cleansers, whether or not as a result of they’ve a naturally oily pores and skin sort that advantages from harsher cleaning, or for different causes. For many who do like this model of cleaning, this one is a beautiful expertise. Simply not for me.

Search for substances like stearic acid, lauric acid, and myristic acid close to potassium hydroxide in a cleanser’s substances record. If you happen to see them, that’s cleaning soap.

I might additionally observe that whereas this cleanser does include the useful centella asiatica extracts and centella-derived compounds, it (like the opposite two cleaning merchandise on this evaluate) additionally incorporates some aromatic important oils, which some individuals could discover irritating. I don’t, however think about your pores and skin’s triggers earlier than pulling the set off on any of those.

COSRX Cica Creamy Foam Cleanser substances: Water, glycerin, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, potassium hydroxide, glyceryl stearate, 1,2-hexanediol, polyquarternium-7, ethylhexylglycerin, citrus limon (lemon) fruit extract, citrus nobilis (mandarin orange) oil, disodium EDTA, butylene glycol, eucalyptus globulus leaf oil, lavandula angustifolia (lavender) oil, pinus palustris oil, melia azadirachta leaf extract, melia azadirachta flower extract, sodium benzoate, coccinia indica fruit extract, amber powder, solanum melongena (eggplant) fruit extract, ocimum sanctum leaf extract, curcuma longa (turmeric) root extract, centella asiatica leaf extract, corallina officinalis extract, moringa oleifera seed oil, hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine, caprylic/capric triglyceride, sucrose stearate, centella asiatica extract, cetearyl alcohol, centella asiatica root extract, asiatic acid, asiaticoside, madecassic acid, madecassoside

CosDNA evaluation

Earlier than we transfer on: Don’t confuse this with the present COSRX Pure Match Cica Cleanser*! The Pure Match Cica Cleanser is a a lot milder cleanser with a pH of round 5.5 that I actually like and used all the way down to the final drop final yr.

Since I began with my least favourite, I would as properly do my second least favourite (or second most favourite, relying on the way you take a look at issues) subsequent.

This one got here on the good time to switch my beloved Sekkisei Therapy Cleaning Oil, which I’d simply completed up.

Double cleaning–using an emulsifying, oil-based “first cleanser” to interrupt up and take away make-up and sunscreen earlier than washing with a water-based, often gel or foaming “second cleanser”–is among the most foundational practices of East Asian skincare routines, like these you’ll discover in Ok-beauty. So it shouldn’t be shocking that I’ve used a lot of cleaning oils over time. Some had been godawful, many had been okay however forgettable, and a really uncommon few made their means onto my “I’d repurchase and reuse this any time” holy grail roster.

COSRX Cica Clear Cleaning Oil falls someplace in between “effective” and “superior” for me. By way of performance, it simply lifts and dissolves even water resistant sunscreen and make-up. It emulsifies properly and rinses away fairly cleanly, leaving only a little bit of residue that every one of my present mild, low pH cleansers simply dispatch. I just like the grassy citrus scent, too. My solely actual complaints about it are that it’s thinner than I usually like and subsequently extra runny, and it isn’t fairly as slippy as my favorites, so I really feel a bit extra friction once I therapeutic massage it in. These are pretty minor complaints within the grand scheme of issues, nonetheless. For many who don’t have points with the aromatic important oils on this one, I feel it’s going to be a pleasant choice to strive.

COSRX does love utilizing these aromatic important oils in merchandise today, although.

By the way, you could have observed that though these merchandise belong to COSRX’s cica line and include all of the anticipated cica substances, I haven’t talked about any explicit “cica” results. That’s as a result of these merchandise all wash off. Any treatment-type substances in them don’t have a lot time to have an effect on pores and skin earlier than they’re rinsed away. I really feel the identical means in regards to the cica in these as I do in regards to the snail secretion filtrate within the COSRX Superior Snail Mucin Gel Cleanser: it’s a enjoyable addition, however for precise results, search for leave-on merchandise as an alternative.

COSRX Cica Clear Cleaning Oil substances: Ethylhexyl palmitate, sorbeth-30 tetraoleate, triethylhexanoin, glycine soja (soybean) oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil, citrus aurantifolia (lime) oil, citrus limon (lemon) peel oil, citrus aurantium bergamia (bergamot) fruit oil, tocopherol, helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil, caprylyl glycol, ethylhexylglycerin, avena sativa (oat) kernel oil, olea europaea (olive) fruit oil, oenothera biennis (night primrose) oil, persea gratissima (avocado) oil, prunus amygdalus dulcis (candy almond) oil, water, 1,2-hexanediol, centella asiatica extract, centella asiatica leaf extract, centella asiatica root extract, pinus pinaster bark extract, asiaticoside, asiatic acid, madecassoside, madecassic acid

COSDNA evaluation

Lastly! My favourite of the three!

After I discovered COSRX was popping out with first cleansers, this was the one I actually wished to strive.

An excellent cleaning balm makes me very completely satisfied. Not solely are they spill-proof, making them good each for journey and for clumsy customers like me, however one thing about scraping a piece of the stable balm out of the jar and feeling it soften softly into an oil on my face simply sparks quite a lot of pleasure. Sadly, not all cleaning balms are nice. Some don’t soften evenly, leaving me feeling like I’m dragging oil-coated chunks of wax throughout my cheeks. Others don’t emulsify or rinse off properly, forming a sludge of oil, make-up, and sunscreen that I’ve to battle to take away with my second cleanser.

COSRX Cica Smoothing Cleaning Balm does neither of this stuff. It softens up readily on my face, reworking from balm to an oil of precisely the appropriate thickness for my tastes. Just like the Cica Clear Cleaning Oil, it rapidly cuts by way of even my most cussed make-up choices and water resistant sunscreens. It emulsifies and rinses away extra completely than the cleaning oil. And it leaves my pores and skin feeling recent and clear afterwards. There’s a slight inexperienced natural scent, and I really feel compelled to make observe of the aromatic important oils once more for individuals who are delicate to them, however aside from that, I discover the expertise of this cleaning balm utterly pleasant.

I’ve been digging my means all the way down to the underside of this jar fortunately.

There may be, nonetheless, one difficulty that some individuals have with cleaning balms, and if they’ve that difficulty with cleaning balms, they’ll have that difficulty with this one.

That difficulty is microplastics.

Many cleaning balms use polyethylene or different plastics to realize that cleaning balm consistency and efficiency. These substances then get washed down the drain and will ultimately find yourself within the ocean. Whereas the precise focus of those substances in any given package deal of cleaning balm will probably be fairly low, some individuals select to keep away from cosmetics that include them. So when you favor to take action, I need to be sure you’re conscious that this product does include polyethylene. The truth that it does is about the one purpose I’ve for not contemplating this product a holy grail.

As a closing observe, the spatula it comes with is sturdy and good.

COSRX Cica Smoothing Cleaning Balm substances: Ethylhexyl palmitate, sorbeth-30 tetraoleate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, polyethylene, lavandula angustifolia (lavender) oil, helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil, eucalyptus globulus leaf oil, caprylyl glycol, ethylhexylglycerin, anthemis nobilis flower oil, avena sativa (oat) kernel oil, butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter, cocos nucifera (coconut) oil, olea europaea (olive) fruit oil, oenothera biennis (night primrose) oil, persea gratissima (avocado) oil, prunus amygdalus dulcis (candy almond) oil, simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil, water, 1,2-hexanediol, centella asiatica extract, centella asiatica leaf extract, centella asiatica root extract, pinus pinaster bark extract, asiaticoside, asiatic acid, madecassoside, madecassic acid

COSDNA evaluation

The Cica Creamy Foam Cleanser, Cica Clear Cleaning Oil, and Cica Smoothing Cleaning Balm can be found on the COSRX world web site.

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