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Wednesday, October 4, 2023

Papa Recipe Is One of many Greatest Korean Skincare Manufacturers to Fly Beneath the Radar – Fifty Shades of Snail


These days I preserve occupied with how lengthy I’ve been utilizing and writing about Korean skincare. It’s been a looong time. Virtually ten years, to be precise. I wandered into Reddit’s Skincare Habit neighborhood someday in 2013 and really rapidly adopted the mysterious mentions of “Korean snail essence” to the a lot smaller however already fervently devoted Asian Magnificence subreddit. I haven’t regarded again since.

Throughout that point, I’ve tried merchandise from extra manufacturers than I can keep in mind. A few of these manufacturers have turn out to be enormous hits. Many extra have fallen to the wayside, both closing their doorways or fading into a kind of names that provokes a “huh, they’re nonetheless round?” response when their title pops up once more. And but others keep beneath the radar, quietly churning out merchandise persistently wonderful sufficient to make them a few of the finest Korean skincare manufacturers round.


This publish is sponsored by Papa Recipe.


For me, Papa Recipe is a kind of manufacturers. So after they reached out about that includes their Amazon storefront and their newly launched international mall on my weblog, I made a product wishlist and hopped on board. Listed here are my highlights from the model!

Papa Recipe Eggplant Clearing Mud Cream Mask review
There can be purple!

Of all of the kinds of skincare product that I’ve tried, sheet masks stay my absolute favourite. Nothing else compares to an excellent sheet masks for an immediate enhance of plumpness and glow. I additionally discover that common use of excellent sheet masks retains my pores and skin in its finest situation, even when I then skip the sheet masks step for a couple of days.

I’ve a private roster of favourite sheet masks that I wish to preserve available. The Papa Recipe Bombee Honey Masks is among the many prime sheet masks in my listing.

Papa Recipe Bombee Honey Mask sheet mask box
You would say they’re…the bomb.

These hit all the important thing factors of an efficient sheet masks. On the most elementary stage, they’re comfy. My expectations for sheet masks have risen through the years as sheet masks designs and supplies have superior. Nowadays, I would like masks which are skinny, pliable, clingy, and able to retaining lots of essence for a protracted time period. The Bombee Honey Masks do all that and nicely.

Papa Recipe Bombee Honey Mask fit on face
The flexibility to remain on by means of regular motion and actions is a should.

They’re a little bit on the lengthy aspect for my face, so I snip them in half throughout the center and match the highest and backside halves individually to my face to carry the attention and mouth holes the place they should be. They’re additionally wider than I would like. That’s much less of a difficulty, since I can simply let the sides drape over my ears on the perimeters, fold them again, or lower them off if I’m actually feeling fancy.

I don’t rely an imperfect match as an issue. Everybody’s face is totally different; it’s not possible for any sheet masks to suit each face. So in case your face is longer and/or wider than mine, these may be the right match for you as is! In the event that they’re not, that’s what scissors are for.

Cutting sheet mask to fit
A pair of small scissors within the toilet makes it straightforward to chop any sheet masks to suit.

The mushy, sheer materials of the sheets conforms snugly to my face and stays moist for an excellent whereas. That is vital. One of many predominant causes that sheet masks hydrate so successfully is as a result of the bodily occlusion of the sheet helps to decelerate evaporation whereas maintaining pores and skin moist on the floor. This enables far more of the hydrating essence to soak up into pores and skin than you’d get from simply making use of a daily hydrating toner, essence, or serum.

After all, the formulation of the essence itself issues. Even the most effective sheet masks materials on the planet received’t save an essence that’s too thick, too skinny, irritating, overly messy, or simply not hydrating sufficient. For me, the Bombee Honey Masks essence has all the time delivered.

Papa Recipe Bombee Honey Mask sheet mask fit from side
They’re an throughout winner.

The masks essence is the right consistency for my tastes. When an essence is simply too skinny, it tends to hydrate much less, dry out quicker, and drip in every single place. When it’s too thick and syrupy, it doesn’t take in as nicely and leaves an disagreeable residue on pores and skin. The essence within the Bombee Honey masks is simply thick sufficient to remain on my face (no drips into my eyes and mouth!) however mild sufficient to sink in nicely.

Papa Recipe Bombee Honey Masks substances: Water, glycerin, butylene glycol, honey extract, propolis extract, hydroxyethylcellulose, glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymer, propylene glycol, PVM/MA copolymer, trehalose, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, panthenol, carbomer, arginine, disodium EDTA, allantoin, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, sodium hyaluronate, glycyrrhiza glabra (licorice) root extract, 1,2-hexanediol, caprylyl glycol, schizandra chinensis fruit extract, coptis japonica root extract, zingiber officinale (ginger) root extract, camellia sinensis leaf extract, citrus grandis (grapefruit) seed extract, acorus gramineus root/stem extract, perilla ocymoides leaf extract, perfume

CosDNA evaluation

Components-wise, it has nearly all the things I need in a sheet masks.

Sheet masks essence formulations have to suit totally different parameters than leave-on merchandise. The principle motive for that is the precise quantity of product used without delay. Most sheet masks include 20g or extra of essence. To check that to the quantity of a leave-on product that I’d sometimes apply in a single use, I weighed out my regular dose of a facial essence.

I don’t use merchandise sparingly in any respect. I all the time cowl my complete face, neck, and higher chest space with every utility. Even so, a beneficiant single use of certainly one of my thicker essences didn’t even hit 1g.

For value functions, which means sheet masks essences merely can’t comprise the upper concentrations of actives and extracts that we count on leave-on merchandise to comprise. The price would turn out to be prohibitive. They don’t really want to comprise excessive concentrations of these substances anyway, because the major function of a daily use sheet masks is hydration.

Papa Recipe Bombee Honey Mask back of box
Hold the aim of a product in thoughts when trying on the substances!

So it makes excellent sense that the Bombee Honey Masks substances listing leads with water and the humectants glycerin and butylene glycol. These are the place the principle hydrating advantages come from. However the remainder of the substances do matter and do improve the masks’ general results, so I’m joyful to see a few of my favorites amongst them. Honey and propolis, after all, but additionally licorice and ginger root and tea. The extracts add calming and glow-boosting results (and a enjoyable issue that issues quite a bit to me).

Regardless of the skinny materials and essence, these sheet masks keep moist for about 30-45 minutes. That’s perfect for my preferences. There’s an outdated fable that you simply shouldn’t depart a sheet masks on for longer than about 15 or 20 minutes or else it “sucks the moisture again out of your pores and skin.” One, that’s not how pores and skin (or sheet masks) work. Two, I’ve all the time seen the most effective outcomes with sheet masks the longer I put on them. The longer they’re allowed to take a seat on pores and skin, the extra essence pores and skin can take in.

Papa Recipe Bombee Honey Mask sheet mask on face
Something lower than half-hour appears like a waste of a masks to me.

I’ve used the Bombee Honey Masks for years, all the time with nice outcomes. Half an hour to forty-five minutes with one leaves my pores and skin calmer, extra even-toned, and plump and bouncy with hydration once I take it off. A layer of moisturizer on prime to seal it in, and I’m all set. As an added bonus, the honey scent in these masks is likely one of the finest, making the expertise additional stress-free for me.

Lastly, a observe on the pricing: Since I personally choose to make use of sheet masks a number of instances per week to take care of the maxed-out hydration on a regular basis, I prioritize affordably priced masks. Everybody’s finances is totally different. The Bombee Honey Masks are $19.97 for a pack of 10 on Papa Recipe’s official Amazon storefront. $2/masks falls proper into my “common use” pricing class. I’ve purchased loads of these previously and can once more!

Purchase Papa Recipe Bombee Honey Masks on Amazon US (20% off utilizing one-time code 20fiftyss)

Purchase Papa Recipe Bombee Honey Masks on the Papa Recipe international mall

I swear the purple packaging isn’t the one motive I like these merchandise.

I additionally love them as a result of the masks itself is purple.

(Simply kidding! I like them as a result of they’re wonderful foam cleaning and pore-clarifying choices for drier and/or extra delicate pores and skin.)

Tube of Papa Recipe Eggplant Clearing Mild Cleansing Foam
But additionally: Purple.

Ever since I realized about the significance of the pores and skin barrier to sustaining wholesome, mushy, glowy pores and skin, I’ve had a robust desire for light cleansers over harsh ones. The outermost layer of pores and skin, aka the stratum corneum or sexy layer, holds moisture in and retains irritants and contaminants out. Overly harsh cleaning damages this sexy layer. Pores and skin loses moisture at an accelerated fee and turns into extra vulnerable to breakouts and reactions. Very excessive pH cleansers exacerbate this by disrupting the naturally acidic pH stage of the attractive layer. Mild, low pH cleansers protect barrier integrity and permit pores and skin to retain moisture and repel exterior aggressors as a lot as doable.

Foaming Cleanser pH test
I take into account a pH of about 5.5 to be perfect for foaming cleansers.

Sadly, lots of light, low pH cleansers simply aren’t satisfying to make use of. I’m not a fan of most milk-type cleansers, because the majority of them really feel like washing my face with lotion and don’t depart my face absolutely clear. Non-foaming gel cleansers really feel equally ineffective to me. And whereas I do have a small steady of low-foam gel cleansers in my bathe, I typically lengthy for a very foamy but nonetheless barrier-friendly cleanser once I need that additional clear feeling.

(I’m absolutely conscious that foam doesn’t imply a cleanser cleans higher! It’s all advertising and marketing. However that advertising and marketing labored very nicely on me, and I can stay with the consequences of the brainwashing if it means I take pleasure in my skincare routine a little bit bit extra.)

Papa Recipe Eggplant Clearing Mild Cleansing Foam bubbles
The Eggplant Clearing Gentle Cleaning Foam lathers up like a dream.

I first tried Papa Recipe Eggplant Clearing Gentle Cleaning Foam years in the past at a magnificence trade commerce present, the place I ended up with a handful of foil samples of the product. I beloved it. It lathers up in moist arms to a superbly fluffy foam that stays pillowy as I therapeutic massage it on my face. The Eggplant Clearing Gentle Cleaning Foam additionally rinses off cleanly and leaves my face feeling refreshed and by no means stripped. As an added bonus, it exams at a pH of about 5.5, which is mostly optimum.

Papa Recipe Eggplant Clearing Gentle Cleaning Foam substances: Water, glycerin, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, 1,2-hexanediol, butylene glycol, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, solanum melongena (eggplant) fruit extract, citric acid, gluconolactone, betaine salicylate, lauryl betaine, hydroxyacetophenone, ethylhexylglycerin, sodium chloride, decylene glycol, tocopherol

CosDNA evaluation

The very first thing I take a look at in cleansers is whether or not they comprise cleaning substances, or mixtures of cleaning substances, which are too harsh for my pores and skin. Basically, the mix of fatty acids like lauric acid, stearic acid, myristic acid, and/or palmitic acid with potassium hydroxide or sodium hydroxide is a no-go. That combo sometimes signifies that the cleanser is a real cleaning soap and can be extraordinarily excessive pH and harsh.

Papa Recipe Eggplant Clearing Mild Cleansing Foam ingredients
No dealbreakers right here.

The artificial detergents sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) and sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) are milder than true soaps, and typically unfairly maligned, however I nonetheless choose to maintain them out of my cleansers. SLS particularly can nonetheless be stripping, even in a low or impartial pH cleaning product. The Eggplant Clearing Gentle Cleaning Foam makes use of sodium cocoyl glycinate and sodium lauroyl glutamate. Works out nice for me.

As a ultimate bonus, this cleanser is unscented. That’s nice information for these whose pores and skin reacts to perfume!

Purchase Papa Recipe Eggplant Clearing Gentle Cleaning Foam on Amazon US (20% off with one-time code 20fiftyss)

Purchase Papa Recipe Eggplant Clearing Gentle Cleaning Foam on the Papa Recipe international mall

Drier or extra delicate pores and skin additionally typically get the brief finish of the stick on the subject of clay masks. Which is smart. Clay masks are marketed for drawing extra oil and particles out of pores and off of pores and skin. The best way they obtain this impact is thru the usage of substances like kaolin clay to soak up oil and follow international particles inside pores and on the floor of pores and skin. Once you rinse the masks off, the oil and dust rinse away with it.

Factor is, clay masks don’t discriminate in what they suck up and pull off of your pores and skin. The clay isn’t particularly focusing on sebum and even simply face oil basically. It’s absorbing no matter moisture it comes into contact with. Relying on the power of the masks (and your pores and skin barrier), that may embrace moisture that your pores and skin really must preserve as a way to appear and feel its finest. Sadly, simply because dry pores and skin doesn’t produce as a lot oil doesn’t imply it received’t profit from the occasional clarifying remedy. Any pores and skin kind can choose up contaminants and any pores and skin kind can get clogged pores.

Papa Recipe Eggplant Clearing Mud Cream Mask in tube
Papa Recipe to the rescue!

The Papa Recipe Eggplant Clearing Mud Cream Masks was one of many first ones I attempted that addressed this conundrum nicely. With 65% eggplant extract, simply 15% kaolin clay (and a fraction of a p.c of bentonite clay), and a few further moisturizing substances and calming plant extracts, it’s a lot gentler than extra conventional masks, which have a tendency to make use of a lot increased volumes of clay.

The feel of the masks is way friendlier for simply irritated pores and skin than most merchandise on this class, too. Proper out of the tube, it feels extra like a cream than a clay masks, even with the sunshine sprinkling of exfoliating grains combined all through. It applies easily, doesn’t harden or crack, and rinses off with out tugging at pores and skin.

Regardless of these measures aimed toward lowering the dangers of dryness and irritation, the Eggplant Clearing Mud Cream Masks isn’t wimpy. I’ve been utilizing it about as soon as per week. It leaves my pores and skin trying brighter and brisker, and the seen pores on and round my nostril all the time look cleaner and smaller. As an occasional complement to my every day BHA, it’s been an effective way to take care of my pores with out going overboard.

Papa Recipe Eggplant Clearing Mud Cream Masks substances: Solanum melongena (eggplant) fruit extract (65%), kaolin (15%), propanediol, dipropylene glycol, isononyl isononanoate, 1,2-hexanediol, ultramarines (CI 77007), arachidyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, iron oxide crimson (CI 77491), titanium dioxide (CI 77891), juglans regia (walnut) shell powder, arachidyl glucoside, salvia hispanica seed extract, centella asiatica extract, houttuynia cordata extract, potassium cetyl phosphate, bentonite (0.1%), betula alba juice, water, glyceryl stearate SE, ethylhexylglycerin, xanthan gum, tocopheryl acetate, butylene glycol, disodium EDTA, allantoin, glucose, calendula officinalis flower extract, hydroxycinnamic acid, rutin

CosDNA evaluation

Eggplant fruit extract isn’t an ingredient I’ve seen featured in lots of cosmetics, so I did a little bit digging to attempt to unearth its claimed advantages. I discovered little or no within the English-language analysis literature. CosDNA merely states its function as “pores and skin conditioning,” which simply implies that it acts as an emollient moisturizer to easy pores and skin’s floor texture. That works for me. I’ll additionally add that basically, plant extracts are inclined to have some antioxidant content material, so so long as your pores and skin doesn’t object to that individual ingredient, having some beats having none!

Purchase Papa Recipe Eggplant Clearing Mud Cream Masks on Amazon US (20% off with one-time code 20fiftyss!)

Purchase Papa Recipe Eggplant Clearing Mud Cream Masks on the Papa Recipe International Mall

Noble…what?

That was my first thought too. Adopted by: Is {that a} typo?

Papa Recipe Noble Rot Lifting Essence in box
Is it?

It isn’t. “Noble rot” refers to what occurs when wine grapes are contaminated by the Botrytis cinerea fungus beneath very particular situations. When these situations are met, as an alternative of ruining the batch, the Botrytis cinerea an infection “removes water from the grapes, forsaking the next p.c of solids, equivalent to sugars, fruit acids and minerals. This leads to a extra intense, concentrated ultimate product” like a candy dessert wine.

That is related to skincare as a result of wine making includes the method of fermentation, one thing many people know and love in our magnificence merchandise. Fermentation breaks down the parts of a uncooked ingredient into smaller and theoretically extra bioavailable kinds. If fermentation is utilized to grapes which have already undergone noble rot and are subsequently extra extremely concentrated anyway, the top outcome might be one thing extra particular than extracts created from grapes that haven’t been affected by noble rot.

Papa Recipe Noble Rot Lifting Ampoule in box
Critically not a typo.

The usual, not-noble Vitis vinifera (grape) extract reveals up incessantly in skincare. Its antioxidant content material makes it a pure match for merchandise marketed as serving to to delay or reverse seen pores and skin getting old. Grapes are a very notable supply of the antioxidant resveratrol, which may assist inhibit and reverse sun-induced hyperpigmentation.

As a result of lack of English-language analysis into the usage of noble rot in cosmetics substances, not to mention nicely designed in vivo English-language analysis into it, it’s onerous to know precisely what variations we are able to count on. However I’ve written about the restricted analysis into skincare substances earlier than and I stand by what I mentioned all the best way again in 2015. Analysis funds are restricted, the world of doubtless nice skincare substances is huge, and if we restrict ourselves to solely that which already has been rigorously studied, our skincare routines can be nothing however a joyless parade of acids and retinoids and SPF. Simply because the analysis doesn’t but exist, doesn’t imply an ingredient is inherently unworthy.

Papa Recipe Noble Rot Lifting Ampoule bottle
And beforehand unfamiliar substances can yield wonderful surprises.

Additionally, far more goes into any product than simply the featured ingredient within the title. General formulation issues fairly a bit.

The Papa Recipe Noble Rot Lifting Essence and Lifting Ampoule are marketed for getting old pores and skin. Their general formulation and textures bear that out. As we age, our pores and skin tends to supply fewer of the lipids and different pure moisturizing elements (NMFs) that assist our complexions retain a youthful bounce and glow. We subsequently have a tendency to wish richer merchandise to assist replenish that moisture.

Papa Recipe Noble Rot Lifting Essence
Even higher once we can begin packing within the richness on the toner stage of our routines.

The Noble Rot Lifting Essence is a reasonably watery, toner-like product that I’ve been utilizing within the hydrating toner slot of my morning and night skincare routines. It’s easy, scentless, and deceptively wealthy as soon as utilized. Primarily based on how skinny it’s, I anticipated it to vanish proper into my face instantly upon utility. As an alternative, it takes a few minutes to sink in and leaves my face feeling and looking extra nourished and alive.

Papa Recipe Noble Rot Lifting Essence consistency
Deceptively skinny however packing lots of substance.

The Noble Rot Lifting Ampoule amplifies that impact. A bit of goes a great distance with this one: It’s a biphase (separated oil and water) product that you simply shake within the bottle to combine proper earlier than meting out and making use of. As soon as combined, it’s a milky liquid. I pat it on after the essence, then wait a couple of minutes for it to soak up.


The fatty content material on this ampoule offers it a exceptional emollient impact. It doesn’t simply plump up and easy out the floor of my pores and skin. It makes it look denser and extra taut, in a approach that only a few merchandise I’ve tried through the years have finished. The mixture of its moisturizing results and that look of elevated density create an general firmer look. I adore it.

Papa Recipe Noble Rot Lifting Essence substances: Botrytis cinerea/grape fruit ferment extract, water, butylene glycol, glycerin, panthenol, 1,2-hexanediol, chondrus crispus extract, glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymer, hydroxyethylcellulose, adenosine, dipropylene glycol, PVM/MA copolymer, pantolactone, sodium hyaluronate, ethylhexylglycerin, disodium EDTA

CosDNA evaluation

Papa Recipe Noble Rot Lifting Ampoule substances: Botrytis cinerea/grape fruit ferment extract, hydrogenated polydecene, butylene glycol, glycerin, propanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, macadamia integrifolia seed oil, sodium chloride, alcohol, water, C12-14 pareth-12, tocopheryl acetate, cellulose gum, ethylhexylglycerin, capryloyl salicylic acid, adenosine, hydroxyethylcellulose, dextrin, poloxamer 407, gardenia florida fruit extract, theobroma cacao (cocoa) extract, benzyl glycol, hydrolyzed glycosaminoglycans, sodium hyaluronate, sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer, arginine, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, hydroxypropyltrimonium hyaluronate, carbomer, hyaluronic acid, BHT, sodium acetylated hyaluronate, raspberry ketone, disodium EDTA

CosDNA evaluation

So the place do merchandise just like the Noble Rot Lifting Essence and Noble Rot Lifting Ampoule sit in a well-rounded anti-aging skincare routine?

In my e-book, I make a distinction between actives and supplementary substances and merchandise. Actives are these extremely regarded, extensively researched substances—sure retinoids and sure types of vitamin C come to thoughts—that we depend on for major results like elevated collagen manufacturing.

Supplementary substances are the much less researched however nonetheless promising and usually much more enjoyable ones to mess around with. Honey, propolis, eggplant, snail, and even noble rot grape extract. These nourishing, moisturizing, smoothing, calming, and antioxidant results are simply as vital, for my part.

Papa Recipe Noble Rot Lifting Essence ingredients
That’s the place Noble Rot is available in.

Pores and skin that’s virtually bursting with collagen nonetheless received’t look its finest if its higher layers are uninteresting, dry, and irritated. The truth is, if given the selection between layers of nourishing hydration with out actives, or actives with out layers of nourishing hydration, I’d select the layers of hydration with out hesitation. So I’ll preserve utilizing the Noble Rot (and the eggplant and the Bombee Honey). And my pores and skin will carry on thanking me for it!

Purchase Papa Recipe Noble Rot Lifting Essence on Amazon US (20% off with one-time code 20fiftyss)

Purchase Papa Recipe Noble Rot Lifting Essence on the Papa Recipe international mall

Purchase Papa Recipe Noble Rot Lifting Ampoule on Amazon US (20% off with one-time code 20fiftyss)

Purchase Papa Recipe Noble Rot Lifting Ampoule on the Papa Recipe international mall

I’ve been utilizing Papa Recipe merchandise for years and all the time considered them as a staple model: dependable and inexpensive and enjoyable. To me, they’ve lengthy been the most effective Korean skincare manufacturers, so I used to be stunned to contemplate that they could want an introduction! If that is your first time studying in regards to the model, I hope this was useful. And in case you’ve identified of them for a very long time however haven’t ventured far past the Bombee Honey masks, I hope you discovered some new issues to strive too.

Store Papa Recipe’s Amazon retailer right here (replenish with 20% off with one-time code 20fiftyss)!

Store Papa Recipe’s new international mall right here!

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